Around the World with Marsha & Joel

We started out early, climbing through the towns on the slopes of the volcano. People do make the choice to live there…especially to take advantage of the rich volcanic soils to grow olives and grapes (for some of the finest wines now coming out of Sicily, Italy, and pretty much anywhere). Beekeeping is also special in this area. Tasting wine and honey on the way back was a real pleasure. We climbed for almost an hour, watching changing foliage until there was none, and dropping temperatures until we had to add another layer. The old lava flows and volcanic rock outcrops were evidenced everywhere.

At about 6,000 feet we reached the Silverstri craters (the limit of where one can drive). Evidence of past eruptions and resultant flows is everywhere. Climbers and gondolas were moving tentatively up toward the central crater.

We climbed up carefully through the ash and 50-60 mph winds to get a look into one of the craters (above, looking down into the center). The winds were cold and gusty warning you to stay back from the edge of the — no worries!

Walking the rim, and views outward. It was time to move down away from the cold and wind.

A local dog and goat wish us a safe goodbye.

Back to Taormina, one of our first stops is the pistachio store where we were treated to a discussion of this region of “the best” of the best. Treated to pistachio brittle, nougat, cannoli, and pistachio liqueur, and the opportunity to buy to your heart’s content.

The Teatro Greco (Greek Theater) built into this beautiful city’s hillside is a site to behold and to climb. It’s the place for views to Mt. Etna, picturesque seaside towns and the arc of the coastline. Built in the 3rd century, BCE, rebuilt by the Romans in the 2nd century, BCE, it still has amazing acoustics and is still used for music and dance performances.

We spent some free time exploring the town, again, more famous now because of the filming of the White Lotus. It’s made the economy of the town boom as we felt by the wall to wall tourists walking the streets and shopping the very expensive shops. Vanessa said this is nothing. Wait until the summer season and you would think you are in New York’s Times Square on New Year’s Eve! All in all, the place is gorgeous.

Back at the hotel we chose one of the nice local restaurants (because the one two doors down had a loud Tarantella group serenading the locals and tourists. We were ready for some quiet and delicious pasta bolognese and a beautifully grilled local sea bass. Of course, just before we were served, the Tarantellas stormed in. Oh well, so much for quiet. But to be honest, they were good and had the whole restaurant singing…and dancing. Full, satisfied and exhausted, we made our way back to rest up for tomorrow’s Local Sicilian Cooking Course and Lunch. We’re learning and cooking regional recipes…maybe you’ll be invited soon to check out our new culinary skills.

Rain in Sicily this time of year is usually not the norm. If it does, it comes in drops and drizzles…except when our group starts off early to reach Agrigento, and eventually Taormina. We have a long drive ahead of us to cross the length of the island from northwest to the southeast.

Umbrellas and layers of warm clothes are in order. Fortunately most of the day will be spent in the bus.

About two and a half windshield wiping hours we reach our first stop, the UNESCO listed Valley of the Temples. Undaunted, we don what rain gear we have, put up our umbrellas and step back into history.

The Temples lie in the shadow of the modern city of Agrigento and are considered by many, the finest and best preserved Greek temples in the world.

The temples were originally built to flaunt the Greek victory over Carthage. They didn’t have an easy time as they had to withstand a sack by the Carthaginian’s, mishandling by the Romans, and neglect by the Christians and Muslims. All sing now…. “We are the world….”

The rain let up a bit as we began the drive further east toward the glamorous Taormina. But first a stop at rural farmhouse with quality agricultural products and to sample really traditional Sicilian foods for lunch.

Our main luncheon plate of couscous, arancini, delicious caponata, local honey, cheeses, and local meats. It was accompanied by an Etna rosso wine, olive oil produced on the farm, and the traditional local cassata cake (for you cheese cake fans).

Off now to our hotel in posh and popular Taormina, actually just north in Giardini Naxos, a little resort area near the beach.

The view of Mt. Etna from our hotel. We are literally sandwiched by Mt. Etna and the Ionian Sea (Mediterranean). The rain all day this day translates to snow on Etna as you can see. The snow will probably be gone tomorrow when we explore the peak’s active craters.

A little “light” dinner at one of many local restaurants before hitting the sack. Tomorrow we visit Etna. Hopefully she’ll be in a good, and welcoming mood.

A beautiful morning for a long ride to Trapani, the capital of Trapani province. The road along the northern coast opens up new vistas that prove Vanessa’s claim that Sicily is beautifully verdant and mountainous. The valleys start showing off miles and miles of vineyards and olive groves. This is, after all, Sicily’s largest wine area. It’s primary grape is grillo that is used for it’s crisp acidity, used for some good dry whites and for adding richness to Marsala wines.

We pass large numbers of wind turbines, and entering the newer part of Trapani see the manufacturing facilities for those gigantic wind machines. We are at the far western point of Sicily where the city was founded by ancient Elymians who said they were descendants of the Trojans. The wealth of the area was based on the salt pans by the sea still very active today. It’s very special salt say those in the know (we buy some of course).

We entered the special old city for an incredible surprise (after parking at the sprawling, but plain port area. The pristine look of being carefully cared for gave off really clean, comfortable vibes. Only two long walking streets (in the shape of a “T”) make up the area.

Beautiful churches and municipal complexes are welcoming. There are no crowds this time of year so we have a quiet reign, merging with the locals.

A church, converted (no pun) to a museum had an wonderful exhibit related to the meanings and interpretations of the resurrection, stations of the cross and more.

At the end of the pedestrian street paralleling the beach Marsha and I continued with Vanessa to her favorite bakery to buy some lunch to eat on the beach below the town wall. Local pizzas and a scrumptious aranchine (how they spell it) filled with a meat ragu. We all met up again for our primary destination, a white knuckle switch back climb up the mountain to Erice.

Erice is 2500 feet above sea level, a medieval city paved in cobblestones with mountain top palaces and fountains…and plenty of places to shop and eat.

It’s just a bit windy on top, but we’re rewarded with treats from a renowned pastry shop. Unfortunately for Marsha most of the delectable are based in marzipan (not her favorite), but delicious none the less and braced with a bit of Marsala flavored with almonds of course.

Back to the hotel to get a quick bite, pack, and get ready for a really long travel day tomorrow, fully across the Island to Agrigento and Taormina. Rest up!