Mainly Charlemagne

We boarded the bus after lunch for an afternoon excursion to Aachen and Charlemagne’s Cathedral and Treasury.

We walked through the courtyard past the cathedral toward the treasury.

The cathedral treasury holds about 120 extraordinary works, unique in their amazing artistry and craftsmanship. The works impress with their high artistic and craftsmanship quality and their uniqueness. They all bear witness to the founding of the now Aachen Cathedral by Charlemagne, the 1,200 year history of the church, the pilgrimages to the shrine, and the historical significance of the church as the coronation church of German kings.

To this day, no other work of art determines our idea of ​​Charlemagne like this portrait.

Created five and a half centuries after Charlemagne’s death, the ideal image of the ruler is presented here. It contains an important relic – part of Charlemagne’s skullcap inside the head – making the portrait a reliquary.

The Lothar Cross was created in the last quarter of the 10th century. It is one of the most famous gemstone crosses of the Middle Ages. Its sides, which are symbolically equivalent, are designed very differently. One side shows Christ at the moment of death on the cross in a fine engraving, the other is decorated with magnificent gemstones.

The Golden Book Cover is a testament to the interplay of Eastern and Western art in the Ottonian period. The Byzantine ivory panel, formerly part of a private folding altar, shows an image of the Virgin Mary that was particularly revered in the Byzantine Empire, the Hodegetria (ancient Greek for “guide”), pointing to the Christ Child. The panel was placed in the middle of a book cover that was to be used at the beginning of the 11th century to re-cover the Carolingian Gospel Book, which was already 200 years old at the time.

One incredible work of art after the other…literally could have spent the day…or a week more to admire, but time on a tour is limited, so on to the cathedral.

The impressive metal entry doors show evidence of the damage done by a nazi machine gun…left as a reminder.

Entering gives just a quick glimpse of one of the most impressively appointed cathedrals we’ve ever been in.

Although Charlemagne’s throne was inexplicably not the way we think of “his/her majesty’s royal throne”. But many, many monarchs were crowned in this “chair”.

The gold, mosaics, marble, glass were examples of the best seen anywhere in the world. The craftsmanship beyond measure.

The golden reliquary contains actual bones from Charlemagne — confirmed by scientific testing based on reports about his exceptional height (often said to be over 7 feet tall — in actuality these bones came from a person just over six feet…probably a full head over all his contemporaries).

Back to the ship for the daily orientation talk about tomorrow’s activities and other local information, cocktail hour, dinner, strolls on deck in the waning light…that goes on until well after 10 pm. Always shocked that it’s really time for bed.

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Mass Treat in Maastricht

Nothing to do with Maastricht, but thought you would be interested in how our stomachs are treated by the kitchen crew on board the Kvasir. This is their version of eggplant Parmesan Marsha ordered last night. Every day, for both lunch and breakfast, there is a standard menu that is unchanging, and a non-repeated menu of culinary specialties reflecting the food of the city or region we are currently in.

Straddling the Meuse River, Maastricht (where the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany meet) is one of the Netherlands oldest cities. Students come from all over Europe to its university enhancing its rich immigrant population. There are over 1,600 National Heritage Buildings.

Winding cobblestone streets and beautiful churches still feel like the medieval era when the city held important status in the Carolingian and Holy Roman Empires.

In the 20th century, Maastricht took its place as the city where the Maastricht Treaty was signed establishing the Euro as the single European currency.

Bonnie thought she was going to get a mint teabag on one of our breaks.

A clothes line with “drying” violins we thought might be an advertisement for an upcoming concert by the famous comedy violinist (at least locally), Andre Rieu?

We also had enough time to at least drive the bus through the Netherlands American Cemetery and Memorial where many of America’s war dead still remain.

After a lunch back at the ship we set off for an excursion to the mouth opening Charlemagne’s Cathedral and Treasury. Join us in a few minutes….

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Boarding in Antwerpen

After a great couple of days in Brussels we make our way to join our ship, the Viking Kvasir to begin our meandering journey from Belgium into the Netherlands (first stop Antwerpen [Antwerp]) with couple of quick stops in Germany. The Kvasir is a beautiful ship (as are all the Viking fleet), with cabins that are marvels of design and engineering. Getting so much, so comfortably and efficiently into a relatively small space is a marvel.

There are about 180 people on board with an average age of 67 (we’re finally beating the averages) ranging from 18 to 90+.

Usually with river cruises on Viking, it’s pretty easy to understand if you’re doing the Rhône or the Thames, but in the Rhine Scheldt Delta, the question always is, “What river are we on?”

With the Rhine in the Netherlands, it’s different since the Rhine waters scatter in every direction as you enter the Low Countries. The land in Holland, often below sea level, has to be managed by uncannily creative ways, for beyond the dikes and a kid’s wet and sore thumb. I’ve a feeling we’ll be learning a lot more about it.

Our first port, while still in Belgium is Antwerp, one of the world’s major seaports (population of ~11.9 million). The photo above right shows one of the sea walls by the river and the contrasts between old and new — in both business and art. The modern, rounded apartments sell for well over two million.

The old town and the Grote Markt are a maze of narrow and winding streets and medieval guilds houses.

The city hall is beautifully guided and be-flagged.

Belgium’s largest church, the gothic Cathedral of our Lady is stunning with the riches of the church and priceless art works, both classic and modern,

I know we all see wonderful examples of Peter Paul Reubens in museums around the world including the massive collection in the Barnes in Philadelphia. Most are pastoral scenes and scores of saftig, naked women. But his religious paintings are spectacular and a very important part of the Cathedral of Our Lady‘s collection.

Two large triptychs and several others.

Plus an eclectic collection of modern works, whimsical and reflective.

Antwerp is also known for two of life’s greatest indulgences; chocolate and diamonds. Belgian chocolate can’t be called Belgian chocolate unless it is produced, by law, under the strictest of regulation. And, the Jewish diamond cutting industry still is centered here.

Our Antwerpian adventure continues tomorrow. Get some sleep.

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