We woke up at the dock in historic Dordrecht and our first view is an old windmill (a landmark that’s not really in use). We grabbed some (way too much) breakfast (again) and met a guide with our group to explore the downtown and harbors before our departure at noon for Rotterdam.
We walked across some drawbridges that allow the smaller vessels in and out of the narrow canals (they call them harbors) to the main harbors. Dordrecht is a city that operates as much on water as on land. Water is both the beauty and the challenge of the Netherlands. Our group got separated by the sudden opening of the drawbridge (above). The gate in the foreground controls pedestrians, bicycles…and tourists.
We took a little side trip today into Wesel, Germany (not the picture above). Wesel itself had some military importance that can be seen by the 17th century citadel that was largely dismantled after WWI by the Allies. The citadel area now serves as the cultural center of Wesel, but we soon see it is not the reason we are here. It’s been overseen by Spain, the Netherlands, France and Prussia. Peter Minuit, the founder of New Amsterdam (New York City) was born here.
But, our interest was in the nearby city of Xanten in the time of Rome and today. The photo above is of the ancient Roman archeological site that has been in a continuous state of excavation for many years.
We explored the ancient aquaduct system the Romans used to source their water. The digs are going on all over the expansive site with archeologists and students from all over the world. They even live on site in existing buildings converted into little “hotels”. The site was at the far reaches of the expanding Roman empire, and was left to be inhabited by the “lesser” of Roman subjects who would have to deal with the cold weather and rain that most nobles enjoyed in territory closer to Rome. But Xanten was of strategic importance to Rome and needed subjects to keep it alive and flourishing.
Another city that considers itself the Netherlands oldest. That claim is contested by Maastricht where we recently toured, but the conundrum is matched by the question, “what’s the difference between Holland and the Netherlands”. That question, though is neatly defined by this relatively short, must-watch YouTube video. Watch it now and come back here for some more on Nijmegen:
Nijmegen lies on the south bank of the Wall river, home to one of the Netherlands’ largest universities. It’s also famous for being the site of a three-day battle between Allied and German forces during WWII’s Operation Market Garden.
Nijmegen’s origin dates back to the first century BCE. The Romans established a fort on the strategic hillside overlooking the Waal and Rhine rivers. The 8th century Carolingian chapel is still there among the remains of a castle that was demolished in 1874.
WWII reshaped the city when Americans carpet bombed the city center, and Nazis shelled it. Lovely streets and architecture are on the way down to the 16th century Lower Town.
A memorial plaza commentating the many Jews who were taken from the city (all listed on the monument. And, again, plaques in front of houses where those Jews were removed to the Nazi camps. This one probably a family of four and a tenant renting the third floor.
The Grote Markt has been the life blood of Nijmegen since the 13th century…kind of the Columbus market of Nijmegen. Although the area was damaged badly during WWII, the medieval and baroque-era buildings escaped pretty much untouched.
Back at our dock below the old city center, we were wondering about all the tents, stages, audio speakers, and exploding numbers of people?
It turned out that this was the arrival and preparation day for the The Vierdaagse ( ’four days event’), an annual walk that has taken place since 1909. Based at Nijmegen since 1925, it now takes place in the third week of July. In 2016 it celebrated the 100th edition. Originally a military event with a few civilians, it now is a mainly civilian event. Numbers have risen in recent years, with over 45,000 taking part this year, including about 5,000 military, and is the world’s largest walking event. Participants walk up to 31 miles each day. Many take part every year, including several who have taken part in over 60 annual marches.
However, today was preparation by partying day! The celebration went on, LOUDLY, beyond our 1:30 am departure…when the people on that side of the boat finally could fall asleep. Here’s something for your “enjoyment” —
Tomorrow we detour into the German city of Wesel and the archeological progress in Xanten, exposing its time as part of Rome.
