We took a little side trip today into Wesel, Germany (not the picture above). Wesel itself had some military importance that can be seen by the 17th century citadel that was largely dismantled after WWI by the Allies. The citadel area now serves as the cultural center of Wesel, but we soon see it is not the reason we are here. It’s been overseen by Spain, the Netherlands, France and Prussia. Peter Minuit, the founder of New Amsterdam (New York City) was born here.
But, our interest was in the nearby city of Xanten in the time of Rome and today. The photo above is of the ancient Roman archeological site that has been in a continuous state of excavation for many years.
We explored the ancient aquaduct system the Romans used to source their water. The digs are going on all over the expansive site with archeologists and students from all over the world. They even live on site in existing buildings converted into little “hotels”. The site was at the far reaches of the expanding Roman empire, and was left to be inhabited by the “lesser” of Roman subjects who would have to deal with the cold weather and rain that most nobles enjoyed in territory closer to Rome. But Xanten was of strategic importance to Rome and needed subjects to keep it alive and flourishing.
The reclaimed and restored bath houses though are quite spectacular and probably to make up for some of the less comfortable surroundings. The engineering of the water heating systems was ingenious. The water’s path through the walls and floors maintained a beautiful temperature year round. The heat was never shut off. Later conquerors of the area found out why when they would turn off the heat when not in use. The cycle of heating and cooling made for serious cracks in the walls and floors.
When the people came in for their daily (rich), weekly (middle class), monthly (all the rest) baths, they would first rub themselves down with olive oil that (supposedly) captured the dirt, and scraped it off with metal blades before entering the water. They all used the same water of course.
Xanten’s mini coliseum has been carefully resurrected to reflect it’s ancient grandeur. Being so far from the center of the Empire, Rome would send groups of traveling gladiators for the local’s entertainment. What’s a Roman city without the obligatory death and destruction (hey, look at some of the movies we produce).
After Marsha did her little Caesar routine, we had a few minutes to explore the beautifully kept, immaculate little town. Obviously a more upscale community, even the construction areas didn’t seem to be dirty. Pleasant people walked around and even the e-bikers were polite and considerate.
Xanten Cathedral owes its name to Victor of Xanten, a member of the Theban Legion who was supposedly executed in the 4th century in the amphitheater of Castra Vetera for refusing to sacrifice to the Roman gods. The cornerstone of the cathedral was laid in 1263 and Construction lasted 281 years.
The grandeur of the cathedral is evidenced by all the ancient construction and even modern candlesticks both inside and out.
The reconstructed walls used some of the original Roman stones. You walk up and place your open hand on those blocks, and you see flashes and images of togas and sandals, and gladiators in the first century BCE…or is that the eccentric neighbor walking to the market?
Tomorrow we’ll be welcomed (we hope) into Rotterdam. Now for a pot of pfefferpotthast to weigh us down for the night.